How To Set Up Strat Tremolo
How To Set Up A Strat Floating Tremolo | 2 Pivots Tremolo
- Thread starter binge
- Start date
- #1
I watched information technology and everything made sense and seemed easy enough. The chip that troubles me is when he uses the 2 pivot screws to adjust the action at the terminate of the video. Can anyone explain why he used them and not the cord saddles?
- #2
Fender's fix-upward guide says to set these upward so that "For a ii-pin model such as the American Series bridge, use your tremolo arm to pull the bridge back flush with the torso and adjust the two pivot screws to the point where the tremolo plate sits entirely affluent at the body (not lifted at the front end or dorsum of the plate)."
I would practise it this style: strings Virtually slack, claw backed out (very piffling leap tension), guitar on its back. Gravity causes the dorsum of the trem to residual on the body, low (just NOT zero) spring and string tension gently pulls the tremolo into the pin screws. Now suit those screws so that the Front of the plate also simply barely sits downward on the body. Then NEVER Adapt THEM AGAIN (under normal circumstances).
Adjust action with the saddles. If you run out of room or want to get the saddles at a sure height (I like 'em low on the plate for tuning stability) so you tin can shim the neck pocket.
Getting the step-and-a-half pull-upwardly on the G is pretty easy to achieve with a scrap of trial and error. Accommodate the claw less than you think. And it's non necessary to become the exact tuning correct on the pull-up; the other two strings won't exist verbal anyway; trust me on that. The mail-it notes are clever, though. I might steal that idea.
- #3
In that location are a few unlike ways to skin this cat and yes, you'll never go those intervals perfect. Non with reasonable string heights matching typical fingerboard curvatures. Now the post-information technology stack? That I'll take to endeavour.
- #4
A few things I'd like to say:
Firstly, I didn't have my guitar with me when I posted this thread but I checked it out and I roughly accept the minor 3rd on the G, whole step on the B and half step on the Eastward and so I'll leave well enough alone. I don't actually utilise the whammy bar that much anyway. I was actually toying with the idea of adding in the two actress springs but I'll leave well enough alone for the time being.
Secondly, possibly I'm simply fussy, but did you find how he doesn't protect the body of the guitar when he has the span sitting against it? That is bound to marr the finish. If I sent my guitar to a tech I would await him to take reasonable care with things like this.
- #5
Arghh, I disagree with a lot of what he does. Peculiarly this: you lot should NEVER conform the pivot screws under total tension. You'll chew up the knife-edge on the plate where it pivots. Always detune the strings and back out the claw before you arrange those screws.
I've got to 2d this.
It didn't happen from an adjustment (because fortunately Fumbler gave me this exact advice before I adjusted mine) simply I currently accept a bridge plate that is chewed and it can mess with your tuning stability if yous bladder your trem.
- #six
Thanks for the replies.
Secondly, maybe I'm just fussy, but did you find how he doesn't protect the body of the guitar when he has the bridge sitting against it? That is bound to marr the cease. If I sent my guitar to a tech I would expect him to take reasonable intendance with things like this.
Adjusting that bridge downwards confronting the finish won't do anything to it that grabbing the bar and pulling up won't inevitably do.
Source: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/how-to-set-up-a-strat-floating-tremolo-two-pivots-tremolo.1026487/
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